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Travel with Henry > All adventures > #11 – Mai Chau

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The 220 km westward to Mai Chau were covered pretty quickly and without incidents – the last 70 km through the mountains were once again a special pleasure. Mai Chau is known for its rice terraces and remote villages of indigenous Muong, Mung or Thai families. If you come here, it would make sense to have your own vehicle, because for exploring the district its essential to be mobile. This is also an area again to ride routes, which are usually not or only difficult to pass – all in all a great region for culture, photography and motorcycle fun.

My plan on arrival was to stay a few, just long enough for having sufficent time to explore the area carefully – then continue to the north as soon as possible into the Chinese-Vietnamese border area. A suitable Homestay – Hao Homestay with family connection – was quickly found and the tours to the surrounding area could take place. In the subsequent review of my photo and film footage, it came at first time in my mind that I had neglected my blog so far. The family was very friendly and the accommodation was OK, the food was extraordinary delicious, the internet connection was excellent, the beer was chilled  and the prices reasonable. In addition, Mr. Hoa regularly invited me to smoke a pong – a Vietnamese bamboo water pipe – with him. Nothing has been a bar to extend my stay for a couple of days to make up the previously neglected work quickly.

While working on the blog, I got a call from New Zealand that my friend Nigel would come to Vietnam for a few weeks. He is going to rent a bike to join me for the next common motorbike adventures. It means to me to face the next plan change, because I have to pick him up in Hanoi. The tour to the north is postponed and my stay in Mai Chau therefore extended. Instead of the originally planned 3 to 4 days, it is finally a 11 or 12 stay at Hao Homestay. I don’t need to hurry anymore with the blog but can slowly dawdling and smoke one or two more Pongs with Mr. Hao.

Rice fields are basically nothing special in Asia, rice terraces in hilly terrain neither. But around Mai Chau it is possible to ride into small, hidden valleys to visit remote settlements, where indigenous tribes live which have already arrived in modern times. This is noticeable mainly at the power lines and occasionally at the satellite receivers outside the Huts or sporadic motorbikes that can be seen – but the people still live in simple houses and use tools like their ancestors of hundreds of years did before. They are very open-minded and don’t mind coming into their village, drinking coffee or tea and talking to them.

Sometimes the villages are not so easy to reach, because of  going on narrow footpaths to get any further. Some rides reminded me strongly of some tours in the Himalayas, where I had similar riding – situations when gorges several hundred meters descending steeply along the paths. But when you get there,  you will find more beautiful and fairly unaffected places, because  tourists normally don’t come on such paths.

A special experience was the visit of a quite remote village – Mr. Hao had told me before, that it is impossible to ride there. The slope might be to steep and the path would be in a really challenging condition, the only chance to get there is by walking. An attempt was worth to be taken, so I tried it on the motorbike. One kilometer outside the village came an elderly woman – I had just stopped to take some footage of the huge rice terraces with my drone. When she saw the drone hoovering over her head, she almost freaked out and wanted to catch it. After she failed to do so, she gave instructions to the drone with long arm movements – fly to the left, to the right, straight … Although I tried to explain to her, that I am using a remote control that controls this peculiar thing, she continued supposingly instructing the drone until I brought it back to the ground.

The next section was slightly more challenging but no real problem. A few larger stones were to cross over some steeper passages, a smaller bridge had to be bypassed – because it had left a quite fragile impression and soon I was in the village. The few people who were there could not believe it and are probably still wonder about, what this crazy foreigner was searching for on his bike in their village.

Now I’ll have a significant break again – I’ll be going to Hanoi soon to pick up Nigel and we’ll go straight to Laos. So it will take some time until there are new photos and stories available – until then, I look forward to your feedback as always.

Henry

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